A tasty, beautiful itinerary by the Tarlo family (partial lineup) in northern Italy. Shirly Tarlo shared with us a two-week bat mitzvah itinerary in northern Italy for a couple, a teenage girl and a camera that never stopped clicking.
A two-week itinerary in northern Italy
A two-week itinerary in northern Italy: the Dolomites, Lake Garda and Bergamo.
At the bottom of the article you’ll find details of the hotels we stayed at.
Day 1: Getting Started
What a day.
Everything that could be delayed was delayed.
Every line that could get longer got longer.
Everything that could work the first time worked the third time.
After 14 exhausting hours we arrived, completely worn out, at the hotel
and the only thing I could still make out through the tiredness was the pink chandelier.
Come on, hopefully that used up all the bad luck of the trip…
Day 2: Lake Garda
After arriving late last night and crashing into bed,
this morning we woke up to the sight of the beautiful old hotel we’d arrived at.
Breathing cold country air.
Eating an almost private breakfast
and setting off…
A bit of fumbling with the rental car and we start heading north.
Through small towns, with, on our right, Lake Garda andaround us mountain ridges with trees starting to change color for autumn.
We reached our first stop.
The hotel has a restaurant with a breathtaking view terrace.
After a respectable set of photos, pizza and a small drink, we continued to the next destination.
Limone sul Garda
A small, picturesque town on Lake Garda.
As we arrived a light drizzle started, which later turned into crazy rain.
That only justified the coffee and gelato break on the lakeshore
Day 3: Merano
Me: “Look, there’s a lay-by here”
Yigal: “Are you crazy? That’s only for emergencies”
Me: “So??? Stopping to photograph all this beauty isn’t an emergency???”
This morning we said goodbye to the Lake Garda area and started heading north. The scenery on the way is simply breathtaking: endless vineyards, orchards of red apples, ancient castles on mountaintops and green… my God, so much green.
The town of Merano:
It was a fairly rainy day, so apart from the drive we spent most of the day at the thermal baths in Merano.
The town is in South Tyrol and looks like a painting.
Wandering its streets (after the rain had eased and the pools had given us an appetite), we found a town that felt more Austrian than Italian.
But me… what do I care?
So what if I wanted pasta? I’m perfectly fine with sausages and mustard too.
Day 4: The Dolomites
The Mont Seuc summit
In the morning we took the cable car from the town of Ortisei up to the top of the mountain.
In winter the area is a ski resort, and in the warmer season (8 degrees Celsius) it’s a place for endless hiking trails.
In addition, the whole plateau (the Alpe di Siusi) is the largest high-altitude alpine meadow in Europe, which let us meet free-roaming cows, horses and alpacas face to face. A few hours of walking, mulled wine, piping-hot cocoa and snacks.
And… we went back down for the rest of a mind-blowing day…
Ortisei
After breathing mountain air we continued exploring Ortisei, a picturesque ski town. It’s easy here (and in the area in general) to forget you’re in Italy.
Most of the population speaks German.
The menus in the cafés and restaurants offer mostly Austrian and German food, and the scenery matches.
But as we said, I can’t find a reason to complain.
Santa Maddalena
We drove to the second village to reach a famous “Instagram” photo spot.
For the first time the sky started to clear, and the blue was mesmerizing.
Combined with the bright green, the autumn colors and the colors of the picturesque houses, my heart couldn’t take it.
Luckilyyyy we arrived just in time for the opening of the Oktoberfest celebrations, so we recovered with a cold beer.
Day 5: The Dolomites
The best way to avoid the back-to-work blues is to be traveling abroad 
Merano 2000Our first destination today was a site called Merano 2000, a park that offers various attractions and hiking trails in summer and serves as a ski area in winter.
You reach the site by a large cable car that leaves every 15 minutes for the top of the mountain.
At the top, in summer, there are various attractions such as mountain coasters, hiking trails and walks.
We chose to get our blood pumping with a few rides on the mountain coaster, and for dessert, hot tea (into which someone had poured a generous amount of rum).
BolzanoHeading back south, we stopped in the town of Bolzano.
A small, pleasant town that reminded us a little that we were in Italy after all.
A quick lunch.
Gelato: finally, the first one
A short wander through the picturesque streets
and on we go…
Passo SellaOne of the best spots in the area.
A stunning road between the mountain peaks up to an altitude of 2,240 meters.
If you’re already in the area, it’s worth going!
Day 6: The Adrenaline Zip Line and Lake Braies
They say that in life what matters isn’t the number of breaths you take, but the number of moments that take your breath away.
So today we lived big time!!!
And how proud I am of my brave Maya!!!
And how proud I am of Maya’s parents, who didn’t break, give in or let her off facing her fear.
The adrenaline zip line:Said to be the longest zip line in Europe, it stretches over 3 km and is divided into 7 sections.
It was one of the highlights of the trip.
And oh my goodness, how much adrenaline was flowing there.
The climb and the moves between stations are done in small groups.
Each group has two guides: one straps you in and releases you, and the other waits at the next station.
It was worth every heartbeat! Every euro! And every scream
Lake Braies:This spectacular lake lies in the northern Dolomites.
All around are endless trees, some already changing to autumn colors.
And nothing beats seeing it with your own eyes.
That’s it. That’s the end of our visit to the Dolomites; from here we continue to the Lake Garda area.
The Dolomites are spectacular. You could easily spend several more days there, especially if you love cycling and hiking. You feel Italy a bit less there: the language, the food and the atmosphere are more Austrian and German than Italian.
Day 7: Riva del Garda and Bardolino
Oh my God, what do you do with all this beauty???!!!
The Lake Garda area is full of picturesque, colorful villages and towns. Today we visited two of them.
But not before we visited a local winery set among endless green vineyards.
After stocking up on a bottle of local red wine, we headed north to the first destination
A town at the northernmost tip of Lake Garda.
A small harbor. An old town. A green park with bike paths. Colorful streets. Excellent gelato.
Just as it should be.
From there we continued to our second destination, driving along the eastern shore through picturesque towns.
BardolinoAnother magical town on the shore of Lake Garda.
The picturesque streets. The alleys. The colors. The smells.
They just invite you to keep walking and walking.
Day 8: Borghetto
We started Yom Kippur morning in the traditional way: on a bike ride.
OK, maybe a little less traditional, with breakfast and a coffee stop every 300 meters.
The streets of Peschiera, close to the holiday village, are picturesque and colorful, and my eyes (at least mine) never tire of the beauty.
After a midday rest and returning the bikes, we drove to a destination that’s a real treat, on the excellent recommendation of Gil Levy.
Borghetto:A small, picturesque village surrounded by blue water. We arrived (on purpose) in the late afternoon so we could enjoy it in the soft light of the end of the day and then in the dark.
Pasta…
Gelato…
And another day ended happily
Day 9: Brescia
This was without doubt one of the tough days.
But I’m tougher, and above all smart….
Smart because I knew how to plan the day right: first sightseeing for the adults, and then shopping for the teenager.
BresciaA city that’s a bit more reminiscent of the big Italian cities after long days in the countryside.
And still, there’s something about Italian alleys, built like an onion: narrow streets, tall buildings, and the further you go, the more a different, new view is revealed.
Of course, coffee in the piazza is a must
and some local pastry
and then we continued to the shopping center for some essential shopping.
And from there, doctor, I don’t remember much . To recover and end the day, I went down to the lake for a small drink that’s about to go to my head.
. To recover and end the day, I went down to the lake for a small drink that’s about to go to my head.Day 10: Sirmione and Gardaland
Today was the first time Maya rode a roller coaster. But… first, a bit of sightseeing!
(Or as Maya put it, “Ugh, can’t we have just one day of only fun?”)
Sirmione:A little jewel box of a harbor town, the posh resort of Lake Garda.
An old town. Colorful streets. Endless gelato, and quite a few tourists too.
At midday we went back to the village for a bit of rest before the evening ahead of us
At this time of year (which isn’t considered tourist season) the park is open only on weekends.
In October the whole park was decorated down to the smallest details for Halloween, and we decided to go to the evening session.
The park opened from 17:00 to 22:00, and that turned out to be an excellent decision, because the park at night is simply wow.
Day 11: Salò, Movieland and a Knights’ Dinner
The ringing in the ears and the aching muscles will pass, but the experiences will stay…
A long day took its toll on us (and on me, as I start to wonder when you get a holiday from the holiday )
) SalòWe started the morning by driving to Salò, where we’d read about a Sunday market.
But not before we stopped on the way for a little coffee and found ourselves in a paradise of tasty empty carbs.
Back to Salò and the market, where the rumor that a market is supposed to sell the same goods only much cheaper hasn’t arrived yet…
So we took a short walk around and went back.
MovielandAfter visiting Gardaland yesterday, today it was Movieland’s turn.
The park is small and much less extreme in terms of rides, but it offers a different, more “Hollywood” experience.
This park too is decorated down to the smallest details for Halloween.
A knights’ dinnerWe ended the day with a different, funny experience: a “knights’ dinner”.
The audience is divided into four groups, each with a crown of a different color. Guests sit at long tables where dinner is served in iron dishes, without cutlery (yes, you eat with your hands), while a knights’ show takes place opposite.
A funny evening. A bit different. Definitely a special experience.
Day 12: Verona and Desenzano
Today it wasn’t only my legs, after more than 20,000 steps, that asked for a break… even the camera said “come on, enough already”
Lucky I don’t listen to either of them
Verona:Without doubt and unequivocally crowned the surprise of the trip for me. Maybe because I didn’t expect too much… maybe because it’s truly stunning.
Colorful streets, old and new.
Endless windows and picturesque alleys.
We didn’t see the famous balcony because the line was too long. But I chose another balcony that’s just as beautiful.
I came away feeling I’d only had a little taste of the city, and I’ll definitely be back in the future.
Desenzano:We drove to a small harbor town on the lake for dinner.
Beautiful. Small. Intimate and inviting.
Day 13: Modena and Parma
Today can be summed up as a culinary day (as if we hadn’t been eating until now ). We left the wonderful holiday village where we’d stayed for the previous eight days and started heading south toward home.
). We left the wonderful holiday village where we’d stayed for the previous eight days and started heading south toward home.And still… a few stops on the way:
Modena:
The capital of balsamic vinegar and Ferrari…
We started the morning with a tour that included an explanation of how balsamic vinegar is made. The tour took place at the home of the first family in Modena to start producing balsamic vinegar, in 1605. Today the place houses both a museum and the balsamic production room.
It was fascinating and tasty.
Parma:
After leaving the capital of balsamic vinegar, we continued to the capital of prosciutto and Parmesan.
The city’s colorful streets were a little empty, because at midday Italians close up and go for a rest.
Here’s another thing it’s a shame we don’t adopt back home…
From there we continued on… to where we were staying for the night.
Day 14: Bergamo and One More Aperol Spritz
This morning I still had time to wander a little in the old town inside the fortress (part of which was our hotel).
After breakfast we continued to the last destination of the trip
BergamoWe went up to the upper town by… definitely not on foot
There’s a funicular that climbs up the hill, and with it you can get to the top.
Among the picturesque alleys we made sure to eat the local dish: polenta, both the regular version and the sweet version.
To finish: a last gelato of the trip
And to finish the finish: an Aperol Spritz (There’s a chance orange blood is already flowing through my body)
(There’s a chance orange blood is already flowing through my body)A Summary of Our Hotels in Italy
So over the last two weeks we stayed at quite a few hotels.
Some are more recommended and some less.
We chose the hotel because it’s close to Bergamo airport, where we landed.
It’s a large, old, renovated building in the middle of fields and farmland.
Conditions were OK for one night. A huge shower but with no cubicle or even a curtain, so the water splashed in every direction…
Breakfast was OK overall.
#Tarlo score: 2 (out of 5)
A hotel a little far from the town center.
Considered an expensive hotel that absolutely doesn’t justify the price.
A decent room but a disappointing shower.
Breakfast: wow.
#Tarlo score: 2 (out of 5)
Alpin stile hotel (The Dolomites, 5 minutes’ drive from Ortisei)
Wow, wow, wow. What a hotel!!
A huge room designed as a beautiful rustic cabin.
A large, equipped kitchen.
A family dining area.
An intimate living room
Excellent toilet and shower
Every guest gets a cozy bathrobe (in addition to towels)
and a great breakfast.
The hotel owners are pleasant and helpful.
#Tarlo score: 5 (out of 5)
Click here for more details and bookings
Click here for more details and bookings
Bella Italia (near Peschiera del Garda)
A huge holiday village where you can rent rooms at different levels of equipment.
We chose to stay in a “bungalow” cabin with 2 bedrooms, an equipped kitchen, bedding and towels, a dining area, a safe and air conditioning.
The holiday village has a water park, a supermarket, a restaurant, a bar, a bike rental shop, a self-service laundry and activities for kids.
The park sits right on the shore of Lake Garda and the promenade.
#Tarlo score: 4 (out of 5)
Click here for more details and bookings
Click here for more details and bookings
Castello di vegoleno
The hotel is inside a fortress on a mountaintop, and its spectacular appearance outside and in definitely delivers an experience, but that was the only positive one. The rooms are hot and the ventilation is barely noticeable. A huge shower, but the water pressure was really weak.
Breakfast wasn’t fresh and was disappointing.
#Tarlo score: 1 (out of 5)
A small, special hotel near the city of Bergamo and the airport.
The hotel was once two farm grain silos that have been converted into a hotel.
The number of rooms is small, so you can’t always find one available.
The rooms are round and nice.
An average shower.
**Good to know (it surprised us): payment is in cash only.
#Tarlo score: 3 (out of 5)
Click here for more details and bookings
Click here for more details and bookings
Insights and conclusions after 14 days in Italy:
1. One angry Italian lady could bring order to the whole world.
2. If you drink enough Aperol Spritz, human blood can turn orange
3. Neck pillows for flights aren’t really comfortable.
4. A car that runs on methane gas may be economical, but it’s one big pain
5. A bat mitzvah trip looks glamorous and sparkly on social media, but it actually involves a teenage girl… (you get the idea )
)6. No matter how long I stay in Italy, I’ll never get used to “ciao” when you arrive.
7. Just before you have to throw away your drinks at the airport, you’re the thirstiest you’ve ever been.
8. Every parent who goes on holiday with kids should be entitled to two days of rest at a spa hotel.
9. No matter how planned and organized you are, expect to pay some kind of “ignorance fine”, and it’ll usually be for something really stupid.
10. If you’ve already forgotten where you ate gelato yesterday, it’s a sign it’s time to go home…
Thanks for flying “Tarlo”…
