For the Passover holiday I was looking for a nearby destination with pleasant weather and cheap flights. That’s how I discovered Crete, and I have to admit I was pleasantly surprised! A flight of an hour and a half from Israel and you’re in Crete. Everyone thinks Crete is just a beach-and-lounger holiday, but we found loads of places to explore! We took a one-week trip to Crete with a baby that, against our will, stretched into a 9-day trip (because of a flight cancellation).
The island is divided into regions, and in each you’ll find different attractions, from archaeological sites to peaceful beaches with clear water. We chose to split our trip between two regions: Heraklion and Rethymno. Because the weather in Crete in April is still cool, we planned a holiday with less lounging on the beach and more nature and charming towns.
Flights
We booked flights in advance with Wizz Air. My recommendation is to always book on the airline’s own website and not through third-party agencies. The outbound flight left an hour and a half late (because of the ground crew, not the airline). On the return flight, after we’d taken our seats, they discovered a fault and waited for the ground crew. After two hours sitting on the plane they announced that the flight was cancelled and the ground crew would help us with an alternative.
TL;DR: there was no alternative flight, sort yourselves out. They sent us for a night at Wizz Air’s expense to an indulgent hotel, but with no replacement flight. We had to book flights ourselves. The next flight with seats available was two days after the original flight. So we stayed two more nights in Crete.
I started a compensation claim against Wizz Air, and I’ll update when I receive it.
Was Your Flight Delayed by More Than 3 Hours?
If your flight was delayed by more than 3 hours, it’s worth checking whether you’re entitled to compensation from the airline. You can use the services of AirHelp, who contact the airline and try to get you the compensation you’re owed. It’s worth a try! It’s free: they only take a fee if compensation is paid.
Where We Stayed
We chose to split our trip between two regions: Heraklion and Rethymno. We stayed at 3 places that were really great. When we travel with Peleg (our baby), we like to choose accommodation with a kitchen, because then it’s always easy to feed him at the times that suit him.
White Coral, Rethymno : In Rethymno we stayed in a great apartment with two bedrooms, a fully equipped kitchen, a washing machine, a balcony and a living room. The apartment was very clean, and the lovely owner met us and made us feel really welcome.
The apartment’s location is very convenient with kids, a 2-minute walk from the sea. Just bear in mind that it’s a little far from the town center (about a 15-minute walk along the Rethymno promenade to the center).
Click here for details and bookings
Village Heights Resort, Hersonissos: This property offers a relaxing holiday and has a spa center with a fitness area, a sauna, a hot tub, a hammam, two outdoor pools, a heated indoor pool and a children’s pool. All the studios, apartments and villas are decorated in the typical style of Cretan villages and have panoramic views of the spectacular countryside and the sea. We chose an apartment with a bedroom, a living room and a balcony with sea views.
The service was excellent, the atmosphere very relaxed, and it’s located in the heart of the mountains.
Click here for details and bookings
I Resort Beach Hotel & Spa, Stalida
We hadn’t planned to stay at such an indulgent, luxurious resort, but this was the hotel Wizz Air sent us to after the flight cancellation. It’s a 5-star hotel, right on the sandy beach of Stalida, with elegantly designed rooms, a spa center and two restaurants. The rooms are air-conditioned and have parquet floors, light wooden furniture, an LCD TV with satellite channels, a minibar and a hairdryer. All rooms have balconies, and most have sea views. There’s an infinity pool with sea views, a children’s pool and another swimming pool.
Our stay was half board and the food was simply excellent! Next to every dish it said what it contained (meat, fish, seafood or vegetarian), and there was plenty of choice and variety.
Click here for details and bookings
Crete itinerary
We landed at Heraklion airport on Friday at noon and picked up the car we’d rented in advance. Book your car ahead and you’ll save yourself the hassle of comparing prices and looking for a reliable rental agency during your trip.
We set off for our first destination: Rethymno.
Rethymno
Rethymno is the third-largest city on the Greek island of Crete, after Heraklion andChania. The city is a great base for a variety of nature trips and magical beaches. It’s an hour’s drive from Heraklion. A quick check-in at the apartment we’d booked in advance White coral, and we headed into the town center. I discovered that Greeks on the islands also believe in a siesta, and most shops were closed in the afternoon. We waited until 18:00 for the shops to reopen to stock up on a local SIM and some local food.
We startedthe second day with a stroll with the stroller along the promenade, to the Rethymno fortress. The fortress of Rethymno is called the Fortezza, from the Italian word for fortress. On a hill stand the impressive remains of a 16th-century Venetian fortress with panoramic views of Rethymno and the harbor.
In the afternoon we drove to one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever visited: Preveli Beach.
Preveli Beach
Preveli Beach is in southern Crete, about 30 km south of Rethymno. It lies where the Kourtaliotis Gorge meets the sea. The beach is special because it combines palm trees, salty sea water and fresh water flowing from the canyon.
There are several ways to reach Preveli Beach. We chose to walk down from Preveli Beach Parking, which involves a descent of about 450 steps to Preveli Beach, then back up to the car the same way. Along the way there’s an amazing view of the beach. The walk is exposed to the sun and isn’t recommended in the summer months.
On the third day of the trip we set off early for an easy trail, Mili Gorge, a 20-minute drive from Rethymno.
Mili Gorge
Mili Gorge is a linear walking trail about 4 km long that starts near Roussospiti, Crete, a few kilometers from Rethymno. We visited at the beginning of April and had the trail to ourselves. The trail is linear, so we parked at the start, and at the end we asked a couple we met to call us a taxi back to the start. It cost us 18 euros.
When we got back we didn’t have the energy to cook, so we went out to eat in central Rethymno. We found a really nice restaurant on the harbor called “Achinos Rethymno“. We were very limited with food because we’re vegetarian and don’t eat leavened bread during Passover. They found dishes that suited us and the service was great.
The next day we started driving toward our second place to stay, Village Heights Resort in Hersonissos. On the way we decided to stop for a visit to Heraklion. We’d planned to go on a boat trip, but the weather wasn’t on our side, so we stayed for a day of shopping and wandering around the city.
Heraklion
Heraklion is the capital of Crete and the largest city on the island. We started our visit at the Jumbo store, a huge shop with a crazy range of toys. It was my first visit to Jumbo since becoming a mom, and I found myself disappointed that we only had one suitcase to bring home. Toy prices there are very cheap compared to back home.
After a few hours at Jumbo, we moved on to the city center. There’s an organized paid parking lot in the center, but almost every time we got there it was full, even though we were traveling out of season. I recommend parking in the port parking lot and walking from there.
Central Heraklion is full of small, colorful alleys with a wide range of shops, from international chains to raki shops. We found shelter from the rain in a small, authentic taverna called Μ…Εθια. The restaurant has no menu; the owner serves mezze based on what’s available that day. You can ask for no seafood or fish. Oh, and he has great local raki.
In the afternoon the rain eased, so we decided to walk around the Venetian Port of Heraklion, a centuries-old harbor and a popular spot for walks and sunset views. From there we drove to where we were staying for the next 4 nights.
Village Heights Resort, Hersonissos: This property offers a relaxing holiday and has a spa center with a fitness area, a sauna, a hot tub, a hammam, two outdoor pools, a heated indoor pool and a children’s pool. All the studios, apartments and villas are decorated in the typical style of Cretan villages and have panoramic views of the spectacular countryside and the sea. We chose an apartment with a bedroom, a living room and a balcony with sea views.
The service was excellent, the atmosphere very relaxed, and it’s located in the heart of the mountains.
Click here for details and bookings
A Rainy Day in Crete
We woke up to a day that was mostly rainy, so we decided to take it easy. We swam in the hotel’s indoor pool and took a drive along the coast from the town of Malia to Heraklion. When we got to Heraklion the rain stopped, so we made the most of the visit for a bit more shopping at international chains: H&M, Zara and so on.
Back to the hotel to rest before another day of touring.
Agios Nikolaos and Elounda
On this day I realized that no matter which road you choose to drive in Crete, you’ll end up somewhere beautiful.
We started the day by driving from the hotel toward Agios Nikolaos, a beautiful, inviting coastal town in the Lasithi region of eastern Crete. The town center is gorgeous, and you’ll find a natural lake, museums, boat trips, water sports, a swimming beach, local shops, a pretty marina and more. We visited on a Wednesday and there was a nice market near the center with lots of cheap bargains.
From Agios Nikolaos we drove along the coastal road toward Elounda. Every corner was prettier than the last: clear blue water, colorful boats moored by the shore and wild vegetation. We stopped at some spot for a picnic before our next stop, Elounda. The town is surrounded by spectacular scenery and beaches. In the center of Elounda, around the square, you can also enjoy a bit of shopping in a variety of tourist shops.
One of Elounda’s most popular attractions is a boat trip to the island of Spinalonga. You can see the island clearly from Elounda, and on it stands a fortress that was once a leper colony. You can reach the island on fishing boats from the marina in the center of town, or continue to Plaka and take a shorter boat ride from there.
Tired but very happy, we went back to the hotel.
Potamos Beach, Crete
We woke up to a sunny day, so we decided to go to the beach. We asked a few locals about a recommended beach in the area and they all recommended Potamos Beach. We put it into Waze and set off. It’s a sandy, well-organized beach with umbrellas and loungers for rent. The beach is long, so you can easily find a spot all to yourselves.
I have to admit I was less excited about the beach.
But the baby really enjoyed playing in the sand, and that’s a good enough reason for us to spend a few hours there.
The Village of Sissi
After the beach we continued to the nearby village of Sissi, a small, charming Greek village. In the middle of the village the sea comes in as a long, very blue and clear inlet. In summer it’s a great place to visit because it’s fun to swim in the inlet with no waves and no currents. Fishing boats moor there, as do tourist boats offering day cruises that anchor out at sea for a swim, followed by lunch on board.
Lyrakis Family S.A: a local olive mill visitor center.
A small, family-run olive oil mill away from the hustle and bustle of town. The woman who runs the place also offers short tours with explanations in English.
Hersonissos: we went for a walk in the town of Hersonissos, whose main street is full of local shops, supermarkets, bakeries and more. We bought souvenirs to take home before the flight back. In season you can also enjoy the Water City water park, the Aquaworld aquarium, the Lychnostatis Open Air Museum and the Labyrinth Park.
Going Home, or Not?
In the morning we got up, packed our things, checked out and drove to the airport. The flight was scheduled for 11:00, and everything went smoothly. After we’d taken our seats on the plane, the captain announced there was a fault and we had to wait for the ground crew. After two hours sitting on the plane they announced that the flight was cancelled and we had to get off the plane and wait for a representative at the airport.
TL;DR: there was no alternative flight, sort yourselves out. They sent us for a night at Wizz Air’s expense to an indulgent hotel, but with no replacement flight. We had to book flights ourselves. The next flight with seats available was two days after the original flight. So we stayed two more nights in Crete.
We waited a very long time at the airport until we were given a hotel, and then we also had to find a car to rent. Wizz Air did offer transport from the airport, but the hotel was very far away and we didn’t want to be limited.
I Resort Beach Hotel & Spa, Stalida
The I Resort Beach is a 5-star hotel right on the sandy beach of Stalida, with elegantly designed rooms. We got a room with a huge balcony overlooking the sea, truly right on the beach. The rooms are air-conditioned, clean and spacious. Our stay was half board and the food was simply excellent! Next to every dish it said what it contained (meat, fish, seafood or vegetarian), and there was plenty of choice and variety.
Click here for details and bookings
Zeus’s Cave
We decided to use the extra day of the trip to visit Zeus’s Cave (the Diktaion Andron cave), known as the birthplace of the mythological god Zeus, with steps and well-kept paths running through its chambers. Getting to the cave involves a fairly tough, partly shaded climb. But once you reach the cave, the temperature drops very quickly.
You can buy tickets yourself at the entrance to Zeus’s stalactite cave.
The cave itself is less impressive, but the road there is simply stunning. You pass through the Lasithi Plateau, a flat area between the mountains with wooden windmills. Lots of sheep and goats run around here and there. The scenery is very impressive and the air is wonderful!
After a great trip we returned for a great dinner at the hotel and a karaoke evening in German or French (I think).
A Stop at the Beach Before the Flight Home
The flight home was at 16:40, so we still had time to explore the island.
This time we decided to drive to an area we hadn’t had time for: Agia Pelagia. Agia Pelagia is a picturesque fishing village about 23 km northwest of Heraklion. We traveled out of season, and it felt a bit as if the village was being renovated for the season. Even so, when we reached the village’s main beach we fell in love with it: a beach of small pebbles and sand, rocks among clear water and colorful moored boats.
Once Peleg had had enough of playing with the pebbles, we continued to another stop that intrigued us as fans of abandoned places: the village of Achlada. Most of the village houses are abandoned and broken, the alleys are almost empty of people, the view from there is breathtaking and walking around the village feels a bit apocalyptic.
After a walk through the village alleys and one more look at the view, we got back in the car and headed for the airport.
This time the flight left on time. A flight of an hour and a quarter and we were home, waiting for another chance to pop over to Crete.
If you have any questions about this Crete itinerary, feel free to ask in the comments!
